Is the Future of French Cheese at Stake?

Image Name: Climate Change and Its Impact

French cheese is synonymous with culinary excellence, evoking images of rustic farmhouses, verdant pastures, and time-honored traditions. However, recent concerns have cast a shadow over the future of some of France’s most beloved cheese varieties, particularly Camembert. Jeanne Ropars, co-author of a significant study, assures us that there is no immediate production problem. Yet, the broader cheesescape reveals that certain creations face existential threats.

The Genetic Diversity Dilemma
The alarm bells about Camembert’s future rang loud following a study by Ropars and Tatiana Giraud from the CNRS. The study highlighted a drastic loss of diversity in cheesemaking ferments. This loss is not new; genetic degradation in the moulds populating Camembert’s rind has been ongoing for over a century. Camembert, along with its relatives like Brie and Baron Bigod, owes its white, mushroom-scented exterior to a single strain of mould, Penicillium camemberti var camemberti. This albino mutant, isolated in 1897, replaced a diverse range of molds and bacteria with a pure white downy surface, fulfilling market demands for aesthetic appeal.

The lack of genetic diversity, resulting from this single strain’s cloning, means it cannot evolve or adapt. This inability to adapt is a significant concern, but solutions exist. Alternative strains like Penicillium camemberti var caseifulvum and P. biforme offer a path forward, potentially restoring some of the lost diversity. As cheese enthusiasts, you can take heart knowing that while uniformity has dominated, diversity might yet return to the cheesemaking process.

Climate Change and Its Impact
Climate change presents a more pressing threat to the future of French cheese. In Normandy, excessive rain has led to new mould issues on Camembert and waterlogged pastures unsuitable for grazing cows. Conversely, dry summers in other regions have resulted in reduced milk yields and altered cheese flavors and textures. Hot weather can degrade milk quality, impacting the final product’s casein and mineral content.

In Switzerland, warming temperatures have led to the displacement of native plants by Mediterranean species, altering the traditional flavors of high-altitude cheeses like Étivaz. This environmental shift highlights the delicate balance between terroir and cheese production.

The Struggle of AOP Cheeses
Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) labels protect 46 French cheeses, ensuring that their production methods and regional connections are preserved. However, climate change challenges these traditions. For instance, Auvergnat Salers and Aveyronnais Grand Aubrac are traditionally summer cheeses, but unseasonable dryness forced farmers to cease their production in favor of winter cheeses like Laguiole and Cantal.

Producers are adapting their charters to account for these changes. However, the stringent EU regulations add another layer of complexity. The increasing ability to detect harmful bacteria like STECs (Shigatoxigenic E. coli) has led to stricter controls on raw milk cheeses. Despite the popularity of raw milk in France, these regulations pose significant challenges.

Image Name: The Fight Against Regulatory Constraints

The Fight Against Regulatory Constraints
Traditional cheesemaking methods face threats from new regulations. Proposed EU legislation last year aimed to replace traditional wooden cheese packaging with recyclable materials. This move could have compromised the flavors of cheeses like Mont d’Or and Manigodine, which are aged using spruce bands. Fortunately, this legislation was voted down, but other measures still threaten traditional practices.

For instance, Saint-Nectaire, aged in volcanic caves rich with natural molds, faces increasing hygiene norms that challenge these age-old methods. Traditional wooden molds are already forbidden, and there is pressure to reduce the use of natural cellars. This regulatory environment makes it difficult for producers to maintain their methods, with some abandoning their AOP status or leaving the industry altogether.

The Human Factor
Beyond environmental and regulatory challenges, the biggest threat to the future of French cheese might be the declining number of cheesemakers. The rigorous checks, paperwork, and constant compliance demands turn an already challenging job into an overwhelming one. This burden deters new generations from entering the field, risking the loss of valuable cheesemaking knowledge and traditions.

Conclusion:
As a traveler with a love for culinary traditions, the future of French cheese might seem uncertain. However, there is hope. By supporting cheesemakers who strive to preserve traditional methods and embracing diversity in cheese varieties, you contribute to the sustainability of this cherished cultural heritage. Whether you are planning your next vacation or seeking travel inspiration, consider exploring the rich world of French cheese. From the rolling pastures of Normandy to the high altitudes of Switzerland, each cheese tells a unique story of place and tradition.

Embrace the adventure of tasting diverse cheeses, and let your travels be guided by a sense of wanderlust and appreciation for the intricate art of cheesemaking. By doing so, you ensure that the future of French cheese remains as vibrant and flavorful as its storied past.