The Turkish City with a Proudly Cheesy Heritage

Image Name: The Journey to Kars

Kars, a hidden gem in Eastern Turkey, is a city that captivates travelers with its rich history, stunning landscapes, and unique cultural heritage. One of the most fascinating aspects of Kars is its cheesemaking tradition, which has earned it the title of Turkey’s cheese capital. This blog will take you on a journey through Kars, exploring its historical significance, breathtaking architecture, and of course, its world-renowned cheeses.

Journey to Kars
Begin your adventure with the Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express), a train journey from Ankara that covers 1,300 kilometers (808 miles) to reach Kars. This scenic route crosses the Euphrates River and takes you through some of Turkey’s most beautiful landscapes. As you arrive in Kars, you’ll immediately notice its unique blend of architectural styles, reflecting the city’s diverse historical influences.

Historical Significance
Kars has a storied past, having been fought over by countless empires and kingdoms. The city’s skyline is dominated by a 12th-century castle, with minarets, Orthodox church domes, and Russian blockhouses adding to its eclectic charm. The legacies of Romans, Byzantines, Armenians, Seljuk Turks, Ottomans, and Czarist Russia all merge under the mist-shrouded mountains, creating a truly unique atmosphere.

The Cheese Capital of Turkey
Kars’ cheesemaking traditions date back centuries and are a testament to the city’s rich cultural heritage. The local cheeses are famous for their distinct flavors, which are influenced by the hundreds of different plant varieties in the region that are consumed by the animals. The especially fatty milk they produce makes for extra flavorful cheeses.

One of the most popular cheeses is Kars Kashar, an aged cheese made with cow and sheep’s milk. Another local favorite is Kars Gravyer, a hard cheese named after Swiss Gruyere but more akin in flavor to Emmental. As you stroll through the main street of Kars, you’ll find numerous mandira (cheese shops) where you can sample and purchase these delicious local specialties.

Kars Cheese Museum
A visit to the Kars Peyniri Muzesi (Kars Cheese Museum) is a must for any cheese lover. The museum is housed in a cold concrete fortress built in 1734 to defend Ottoman Kars against the expanding Russian Empire. Here, you’ll learn about the history of cheesemaking in the region, which dates back to antiquity. The museum’s storyteller and guide, Birol Aydin, shares fascinating insights into how the Molokans, a religious spiritualist group exiled from Russia, brought modern cheesemaking techniques to Kars in the late 19th century.

The Molokan Influence
The Molokans, whose name means “milk drinkers,” were known for consuming dairy products during fasts when Orthodox Christians abstained. Their exile to Eastern Turkey inadvertently gifted Kars with the cheesemaking traditions found here today. The Molokan dairy farms thrived in the cold, unforgiving climate of Kars, and their recipes have been preserved by successive generations of Turkish cheesemakers.

Boğatepe: The Cheesemaking Village
A short drive from Kars takes you to Boğatepe, one of the original Molokan villages. This village is renowned for producing some of the best cheese in Turkey. Almost all the cheese sold in the mandira in Kars is produced in small, family-run factories in Boğatepe.

During your visit, you can tour the factories and see the traditional production methods in action. The Koçulu family, one of Boğatepe’s cheesemaking families, offers a grand tour of their factory. You’ll witness milk being boiled in Molokan copper pots, some of which are 150 years old, and wheels of Kars Gravyer ripening in cold cellars.

Image Name: The Cheese Capital of Turkey

Seasonal Cheesemaking
Kars Gravyer requires a particular quality of cow’s milk, which is determined by the grasses and plants the cows have eaten. This cheese is only produced in spring and summer when the milk is at its best. In contrast, fresh yellow cheese, an un-aged version of Kars Kashar, is made in the winter months.

The difference in seasons affects the texture and taste of the cheese. Fresh yellow cheese is sweeter and more sugary, while Kars Gravyer is saltier and sourer. The ripening time is also crucial, with Kars Gravyer aged for a minimum of six months and up to four years.

The Revival of Cheesemaking in Boğatepe
In the early 2000s, Boğatepe faced a crisis following a tragic traffic accident that killed 17 villagers. Many residents considered leaving for the cities, but Ilhan Koçulu, a local cheesemaker, secured funding from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and launched a marketing campaign to revive the local cheese industry.

This initiative reintroduced local cheeses like Kars Gravyer to cheese lovers across Turkey, attracting culinary tourists to Kars. The UNDP funding also helped establish a women’s cooperative in Boğatepe, which trains local women in the tourism industry and allows them to manage homestays for visitors.

A Culinary Adventure
As you explore Kars and Boğatepe, you’ll be treated to a culinary adventure unlike any other. Enjoy a “Cheesemaker’s Breakfast” in Boğatepe, where you’ll sample a variety of local cheeses and other regional delicacies. Visit the small cheese museum in the village, which tells the story of Boğatepe’s cheesemaking heritage.

Conclusion:
Kars is a city that beautifully blends history, culture, and culinary excellence. Its rich cheesemaking traditions, stunning landscapes, and historical significance make it a must-visit destination for any traveler. As you savor the flavors of Kars’ famous cheeses, you’ll also be immersing yourself in a unique and captivating cultural experience.

Whether you’re a cheese connoisseur or simply a curious traveler, a journey to Kars will leave you with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for this proudly cheesy heritage. So pack your bags, embark on an adventure, and discover the hidden treasures of Kars, Turkey’s cheese capital.